Musings on Jonques Et Sampans

One should never spend too much time with a scarf that one is thinking of culling from their collection and selling, it just might not end up where you had planned.

So the story went with my best laid plans of this morning. I have had Jonques et Sampans for sometime now and not worn it. I kept thinking that I would but then did not and it kind of sat there with the others never saying a word until today.

I would love to know what inspired famed french illustrator Françoise de la Perrière; when he mused upon the design "Jonques et Sampan". Had he actually taken his in his inspiration while viewing Junks in their original setting in some far off Asian setting, or had he been inspired by the artwork of another such as shown in the ancient Japanese Ukiyo-e woodblock pictured above.

I actually spent quite a lot of time traveling in the Orient, while I lived in Japan. The massive floating hulls of the Junks are a sight to be seen. That was what had originally drawn me to this piece. Today I took a deeper closer look into its watery depths. I have always considered some of the other colorways of this design a bit garish, preferring the subtlety of this sea-glass colored version. I purchased it about the same time as I purchased a "Geisha" in a rather similar colorway. I realize now that I was reminiscing and missing my time spent in the orient and that is what probably prompted the purchase of both designs.

An Hermes Scarf Holds A Love Story Within It's Silken Threads

The greatest love stories are often tragic. But how many times are they associated with a scarf? In Medieval times a lady would often tie her scarf around the armour of her favored knight, a sign of adoration.

The story by Chhengiz Aytmatov, "The girl With The Red Scarf" was translated by french poet Luis Aragon who called it the "world's greatest love story..."

If we were to truly look back in time many a heart struck gentleman has formally stated his love by the gift of a scarf to the lady of his affection. But how many of those moments, or stories have been preserved in time, only to be rediscovered at a later time?

I had the privilege of such an occurrence, when years ago I purchased a lovely old Hermes scarf, simply because it was a rare design, and I was attracted to the simplicity of the piece.

Think about your favorite or even the greatest love story that you remember hearing. Are they not often tragic?

I was gifted to be the person to whom a great though tragic love story was passed to, preserved in the silk of an Hermes scarf.

"En Vente Chez Hermes a Paris"

The scarf had come to the person from whom I received it, from her Great-Aunt. The scarf had come to her in its box inside of its original tissue with a note. The note read:

"A very special Hermes-Paris scarf from my love Gus. Worn 2-3 timeswith him, never to be worn again. My beloved Gus died in 1961."

The person I received the scarf from explained the note this way:

"My aunt was a career woman who never married. She had this love affair with Gus for 15 years! He was Catholic and his wife would not give him a divorce. He separated from his wife and was working in New York City when my aunt met him. He had been separated for 3 years. They each had their own apartment, but they were together for 15 years. He died of a heart attack in 1961 in my aunt's arms. My aunt died in 1969."

Sometimes I don Gus' memento of his love for this lovely woman, wrap myself up in my favorite cashmere sweater, make myself a cup of tea, light some candles, grab a good book of poetry, and let the threads cast their magic of memory of a tale of strong yet tragic love, that has stood the test of time, and lived on even after the lovers are gone.

Musings On Hermes Scarves

Musing On A Mystery - Napoleon III

When I first started this blog, I spoke about how I found the mysteries regarding some of the scarves histories so intriguing. Hermes has been making scarves for so long that there are always scarves that come along that even long time collectors have not seen. It does not happen often but it does happen, and discussions around them in the past have always been lively and fun for me.

I recently acquired a scarf, that many of us thought was only printed for one special event, that being the 150 year anniversary of Credit Lyonnais Bank in London. Which celebrated its anniversary in 1970. Now while it is true that Hermes did in fact print special pieces in limited quantities for this event, they also printed a Napoleon III / Empire C'est La Paix which was not distributed for this event alone, as it was not printed with the imprint of the anniversary dates.

I love the consistency that in keeping with the historical significance Hermes printed the Napoleon III in a jacquard of "Bees".

Historically speaking there is much reverence and attention given to anything which has to do with the reign of the first Napoleon. No major anniversary of births, battles, or buildings goes uncelebrated.

The legacy of Napoleon III includes some of the most progressive social reforms of the period, along with much of the modern infrastructure of France as we know it today, including railroads and major ports. The second empire also saw the building of major avenues, and a sewer system that still functions today. Napoleon III also organized innovative financial and credit organizations.

Historians have always treated France's "Second Empire" somewhat dismissively. However, Hermes honors the Emperor here with Ledoux's beautiful design, which also commemorates the special relationship held between England's Queen Victoria, and Napoleon III. It is fitting that above Napoleon III the words Empire C'est La Paix . Perhaps Queen Victoria said it best when after visiting the tomb of Napoleon I escorted by Napoleon III, in her journal she wrote:

"The coffin is in a small side chapel, de St. Jerome....Into this the Emperor led me, and there I stood, at the arm of Napoleon III, his nephew, before the coffin of our bitterest foe, I, the granddaughter of that King who hated him most and who most vigorously opposed him, and this very nephew who bears his name, being my nearest and dearest ally!"

Napoleon the III's grave site has no place of honor in France, for he died in exile on the not too distant shores of England following complications with gallstone surgery. His wife had a church built in Farnborough this was to be his final resting place.

Musings On Mustangs

Our childhoods hold wonderous memories that we can call up at any given moment, muse on them and drift back to a time when life was carefree and warm. Some of the special memories I have involve the quality times spent with my father. Who because of what he taught me, how he taught me, and what he shared with me, enriched my life forever. He has been gone for sometime now, but special memories linger on.

He loved the Amerian western. I remember the stories he would tell about going to the matinees when he himself was young. And then growing up I got to relive those moments with him through the miracle of television. There also were those trips together to matinees of our own.

As an adult, I still seekout the westerns when they come to the big screen. Which today is few and far between. Each time I do, I somehow feel as if I am again spending time with Dad.

I am excited about one that is set to be released soon, 'Appaloosa'. I have always wanted just the right colorway of Robert Dallet's design "Mustangs". I think I have found the one for me. I will be wearing it the next time I spend some time with dear old Dad.

Musings On Citrouilles et Coloquintes Oh So Very Fall

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The leaves are turning and there is a chill in the air, that whispers the onset of fall. A time for hot cider, and pumkin pies. We turn the soil over saying goodbye to the fare of summer, in preparation for the winter frost and rain. The season changes, and things around us get just a little more still as winter approaches.

Those are the feelings that Valerie Dawlat-Dumoulin's design Citrouilles et Coloquintes stirs within my soul. I want to get my cup of tea and snuggle up with a good read. Fall is here.

Musings On Paradis du Roy

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"Paradis du Roy" was released in 1989, and was designed by Annie Faivre. It is a wonderful piece full of imagery that causes the eyes to wander. The design also contains Annie Faivre's famous monkey.

Here is the feature story taken from the Autum/Winter 1989/1990 booklet which featured this design:

"The monarch whom all the world called simply "The KIng" commanded an appropriately majestic dwelling- Versailles.
Here Louis XIV and his progeny ruled resplendently for a hundred years, from the glittering 1680s to the dawn of the
French Revolution. Kings enthroned in a gilded palace, parks peopled with statues of gods. The royal vegetable
garden, designed by Jean de la Quintine, is tended today by the National Horticulture School."



The design takes its inspiration from the Gardens at Versailles, quite possibly the most famous gardens in the world. Just as in the real garden the Bassin d’Apollon – the Apollo Fountain is the central focal point so it is within the design by Ms. Faivre.

Musings On The Royal Mews

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Located in the very heart of London are the royal stables, known today as the “Royal Mews”. The word “mews” is a derivative of an old French word “mue” (which is taken from the Latin “mutare, meaning to change). In this case it is the changing of plumage. For in the Middle Ages the king kept his falcons in a “mews” during their “mewing” or molt.

Prior to 1537, the royal stables were in Bloomsbury. However fire destroyed the Bloomsbury stables and the horses had to be moved. At this time the mews for the falcons was at Charing Cross. Needing quarters for the horses after the fire, the falcons were moved from their mews and the horses were then stabled there.

Buckingham House was purchased by George III in 1762, and later became Buckingham Palace. This gave the Monarchy the stables at Charing Cross and Buckingham Palace. In 1824 George IV had the stables and the coach houses at Buckingham Palace re-designed, and in 1825 this became the “Royal Mews”.

In 1855, Queen Victoria established at her own expense the “Royal Mews School” to provide education to the children of the servants belonging to the Royal Mews. The school remained for over 20 years.

Today all state vehicles are housed and maintained at the Royal Mews, thus it serves as an important working department within the Royal Household.

Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermes (President and fifth generation descendant of Hermes founder, Thierry Hermes) visited London in 1990. As part of his stay he visited the Royal Mews. Here he was inspired by the exquisite craftsmanship and beauty of the Royal coaches and the historical association with horses. He knew he was experiencing the perfect subject matter for an Hermes scarf.

He also knew that he had in mind the perfect artist for such a piece, his old friend and someone who had designed other scarves for Hermes, Colonel Jean de Fougerolle. Colonel de Fougerolle was beseeched to visit the Royal Mews himself. Once there he too was inspired by the rich possibilities for design offered by the setting.

Appropriately in 1993, during Hermes theme the “Year of the Horse”; Colonel Jean de Fougerolles rendition “The Royal Mews” scarf was released. And would remain The exclusive to Great Britain until the end of 1993.

The scarf’s design incorporates at its center depictions of the horses and carriages of the royal family, the Queen’s Equerry and Master of Horses are facing each other. The carriages depicted are: The Golden State Coach, The Irish State Coach, The Barouche, The 1902 State Landau, and queen Alexandra’s State Coach.

Hermes presented this scarf to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II at the Royal Windsor Horse Show, on May 13, 1993.
An interesting side note is that the site where Buckingham Palace now stands was originally a mulberry garden planted by King James I (r. 1603-25) to rear silkworms. Unfortunately, he chose the wrong kind of mulberry bush, and silk production never took off in Britain.

We can be forever thankful that this was not the case in France.